London Itinerary: Friday, 9 May 2008

10:00a I always hear everyone come back from London and say, "Oh, that British Museum! You could spend a whole day in there!" Why the hell not? "The sun never sets on the British Empire": you can see evidence of this archaic saying in the British Museum. Having had a white-knuckled grip on almost every land of ancient peoples and artifacts at one time or another, they've chipped off a piece here and there and carted it back to the island with them. We can roll our eyes, thinking "how unfair," but we probably owe a lot to them. Look at the Parthenon in its current state. Years of warfare and exposure to the elements/pollution have made the ancient temple an absolute wreck. So, if the British hadn't had the sense or nonsense to remove the friezes and sculptures of deity from it, we'd have so much less than we do now. So no need to complain. They may have been imperialistic culture-thieves at one time, but now we have the marvelous convenience of seeing so much of the world's history in one place.


The British Museum has some 3 or 4 cafes and restaurants located within its walls. You have no reason to leave before the museum closes at 8:30p. I can get there right at 10a, look at exhibits. When I feel peckish (I'm going to London, so now I have license to use those Britishisms without seeming pretentious), I can just go to the eating facility appropriate to my price bracket. When I feel intellectually drained, I can go browse the gift shop until I feel like hitting the exhibits again. I can always leave and see something else in town if I get bored, but it's much harder to add a whole day that I haven't planned for the museum. But I don't think I'll have that problem.

London Itinerary: Saturday, 10 May 2008

8:00a They say that you have to be there when the market opens at 7a in order to find all the deals and not have to fight the ridiculous crowds. I'm just there for the local color. We used to watch Bedknobs & Broomsticks all the time when I was little. So, how could I not stop by the Portobello Road Market? It opens every Saturday at 7a and stretches almost the full length of the road through Notting Hill. With the exchange rate from pounds sterling to U.S. dollars being as high as it is, I don't think I'll buy anything of note. They do, however, have a fruit and veg market in addition to the antiques, so I'll pick up a little something to tide me over until lunch. By the way, I'll be so disappointed if there aren't people in turbans and others in kilts waiting to sing and dance for me.

12:00p Madame Tussaud's is always crowded, from what I hear. So, we've put that off for today when the weekend crowds won't make much of a difference. It's just a bunch of wax figures, so I don't think I'll get too perturbed if people get in my way. How weird to stand beside something that looks so much like a real person, but they don't breathe or move. Don't get me wrong--I want to go even though it sounds like I'm complaining. This is the closest that I'll get to seeing the relative height and likeness of most of these celebrities or historical figures. And it's art, for kripes sake. People make people out of wax. That has to be interesting. I wonder if anyone will notice if I leave my teeth marks in Oprah's forehead.


2:30p I wanted most of the afternoon to do this. St. Martin-in-the-Fields has a brass-rubbing center. "What is a brass-rubbing," you ask? I had the same question when I first read about it. It's quite the novel medieval art form. One uses all shades of soft metals and other color pigments to produce a figure (lady, lord, knight, etc.) on heavy paper. It's just unique enough that I've made this a priority on my trip. I love to create, and this is one of those activities that I want to fully experience while I have the opportunity. No hurry. No other place to be. Nothing on the mind but appreciating the originality within myself.


7:30p I'll have finished at the brass-rubbing center at 6p and found a place nearby to eat. I'm still in Trafalgar Square, so I go back to St. Martin-in-the-Fields for an evening concert. I've never heard of the Festive Orchestra of London, but take a look at their program! It's all famous works. You almost never get that lucky with concerts. I have recordings of my favorite concertos, sonatas, etc., but I want to hear that stuff performed live. And nobody does that. It's the music that everyone knows, but in order to be musically diverse and interesting, the orchestras choose something obscure. Now, I get to hear some of my favorites performed live. And I just love them for this: it's a candlelight concert. That's all you need, isn't it?! If they're performing such lovely music, they have to add such a delicious ambiance through candlelight. Great music, candlelight, a beautiful and old church--it's a feast for the senses. I can't wait.

London Itinerary: Sunday, 11 May 2008

9:00a The Hyde Park Ward meets at 64 Exhibition Rd. in South Kensington. I never really had the benefit of a mission when people get to see that "the church is the same, everywhere you go." I'll be a bit disappointed if I go, and it is the same. How can it be the same? People are different, everywhere you go. The doctrine, I'm sure, stays the same, but it just doesn't feel the exact same to everyone. People have different needs, different pieces of the church that comfort and inspire. So, I want to see that part--the part that these people in this particular ward carry in their hearts.

12:00p The Dickens House Museum opens. Even though Dickens was a man of his time (he had a mistress for years), I consider him a deeply moral and spiritual man. So, we go to look at his London house on Sunday. Apparently his house is filled with literary allusions--windows, objects, rooms that appear in the books he wrote or finished while living in St. Pancras (I want to type "St. Pancreas"). One of my favorite books is A Christmas Carol, and though he didn't write that one here, I have to stop by and look at the life of such a famous and favored author.

3:00p Two hours until the British Library closes--just enough time to catch all the good stuff. They have a line of noteworthy items on display: the Magna Carta (1 of 4 created), a Gutenberg Bible, Jane Austen's writings, Shakespeare's First Folio, and musical manuscripts by Handel. History is all about artifacts, for me. To look over a letter and think about who touched it. To walk around in a house and imagine who's feet walked the halls. So, the perfect activity for this Sunday afternoon: a few hours of quiet contemplation and consideration.


7:30p Where did I hear about them? I can't remember. I think I was just browsing different versions of "I Vow to Thee, My Country" on iTunes one day years ago, and I came across a boys choir called Libera. Now, unlike the usual boys choir, this one is made up of a collection of kiddies from South London that might otherwise be without opportunity. It's not like they're destitute, but they do live in an urban area and could be filling their time with less than legal and productive activities (sounds extremely dramatic and presumptuous of me to talk as though I assume that most of them would be involved in such things if they weren't involved in this choir). Tonight, they're performing at the South Bank Center, and I'm eager to hear them perform live. Check out a little sample of their music.

London Itinerary: Monday, 12 May 2007

9:30a I need to be at the doors when Westminster Abbey opens. Otherwise I'll hate myself later when I have to battle all the crowds that don't really care about seeing anything but what was mentioned in The DaVinci Code.

I have to admit--I really don't know what one is supposed to do at Westminster Abbey. I know that this is one of the places to see, so I've put it on my itinerary. I'll catch one of the tours to get the high points of the Abbey and the museum, and perhaps then I'll be able to recognize more of the significance of the place (other than just the general fact that it seems to be the religious structure that hosts every state ceremony--coronations, funerals, etc.--for the last so many centuries). But for absolutely certain, I want to stand at the foot of Elizabeth I grave in the crypt and melt like butter in my shoes. I love to read about that woman. She grew up without a mother. Her life was threatened many times by those closest to her (half-sister, cousin, lover, etc.). She was so socially obnoxious at times. She was just a normal person, in all respects nothing remarkable. But she became on of the greatest leaders in history because she said it was "her duty." Lovely and fascinating.

1:00p The next tour over at St. Paul's starts at half-past, so I need to make sure I'm there in time to buy my ticket and be in line. Another tour, we ask? I just don't know what one does here either--even less than what I know to do over at Westminster Abbey. I still want to see everything, though. I love visual stimulation, and this cathedral is probably an eyeful. But I also need someone to take me around the place and say, "Okay, this is what you came here to see, whether you knew it or not."


3:30p The tour is over, and I have a little bit of leeway until my evening show. It's a particular point of my trip to feel the city, so I have a few hours to do whatever. It's in those moments where I'm still that I can really drink in an experience. So, slow down, dude. Let's take a moment to let everything sink in.

7:30p I'm one lucky SOB to have gotten a ticket to the opening night of Tosca at the Royal Opera House. I don't know much about this particular opera, but I know I really like the works of Puccini. And I know that this opera is one of my older brother's favorites. Knowing his taste, I had to grab a ticket to one of the performances. If you see him, tell me if he still looks green (with jealousy).

London Itinerary: Tuesday, 13 May 2008

10:00a The Globe Theatre opens. It's strange to think that this structure wasn't rebuilt until 1996 by an American. Why an American? You'd think that with Shakespeare being one of England's national treasures they'd have rebuilt his theatre themselves and rebuilt it a lot sooner.


Small world: I watch this BBC comedy called "My Family." The actress who plays the mother in that series is Zoe Wanamaker. Some of you will recognize her as Madame Hooch from the first Harry Potter movie. I was reading up on the history of The Globe Theatre one day, and they say that an American director, Sam Wanamaker, whilst on a trip to London, was so disappointed to see no other sign of the theatre on the South Bank other than a plaque. So, he spearheaded the rebuilding of the theatre. I wondered if there was any relation, and what do you know! Zoe is Sam's daughter. Useless information, but I can't think of The Globe now without thinking of her.

1:00p What a sucker. I'm on the South Bank. I'm so close. I just have to stop by Holywell Music. They're the largest distributor of harps, harp music, and harp accessories in Europe. I'll have been over a week without my instrument, and I have to get a fix somehow. Besides that, they're bound to stock some harps in gold, and I don't get to see those that often. They make you want to curtsy out of respect.


3:00p The Old Operating Theatre. This place was used for medical and surgical demonstrations for centuries. I can't imagine being thrown on a slab and cut open while people watch. I'm the one on the table, I should be able to sell and collect on the tickets. I wonder if it's kosher to have concession at an operating theatre. A resident feels a little munchy while watching brain tumor removal, so he comes back to watch with a slurpie and Cheeto's in hand. It's got to make it more comfortable to be there for hours on end.

So this place has the flair of antiquity and the interest of medicine. I had to put it on my itinerary for that reason.


5:30p I really don't want to go to Dover on Thursday if it's supposed to rain. So, this whole day is designed to swap out with Thursday, if it means avoiding bad weather in Dover. Thus, nothing is permanently scheduled in the evening. I can eat, go to Harrods, walk around Hyde Park, go some place really seedy and teach the discussions (just kidding--I'd be shot), or I can use this evening to go to Soho and get my Union Jack tattoo at Frith Street Tattoo. So, TBA.

London Itinerary: Wednesday, 14 May 2008

9:00a I think I've planned to hurry somewhere every morning so far: "Gotta get there by the time it opens" or "Have to be the first few through the gate to beat the crowds." Well, this morning I plan to not have anything especially pressing to go to. What do Londoners look like in the morning rush? What would I do with myself on a relaxing morning in Londontown? I'll find out today. I walk slowly, eat my breakfast slowly. I'll open the door for someone. I'll look in the windows (of businesses, not houses). I'll kidnap myself a little unattended human baby. All things that can make life pleasurable. (Just kidding about the kidnapping).

11:00a I'll have lunch over at the cafe at Sotheby's auction house on New Bond Street. I could never ever get addicted to the trill of gambling; it's just not a thrill for me. I'd be so sick about the prospect of losing that I wouldn't enjoy myself. Auctions are it for me, though. I have, in the past, gotten addicted to those. That's the perfect thrill of winning. Sotheby's has nothing that I could bid on and win, but I'd love to step in to the showroom after I've eaten and see everything on display--taste the flavor of a real auction house. I'll wish that I had a numbered paddle I could wave in the air like everyone else, though.

1:00p Stroll right on over to Covent Garden. This district has Benjamin Pollock's Toy Shop (a kind of antique toy shop that sells authentic old toys and reproductions of the good and wholesome variety--in other words nothing that needs batteries), The Tea House (stocking all kinds of imported and domestic teas as well as novel tea related paraphernalia), and is right next to Chinatown. We'll take a moment to browse each of them.


3:00p I wish I still new where Megan Hinmon was. I had her two years ago for History of Theatre to 1600 during Spring term and History of Theatre from 1600 during Summer term. I learned so much in that class mostly because she was just a grad student so very fascinated by her subject. Anyway, she'd be proud that I'm going to the Theatre Museum. As much as I picked up in that class and that major, how could I not?


7:30p Okay, I will admit that making a musical out of The Lord of the Rings sounds so stupid. Whose move was that? But you have to click on the link above and check out the spectacle. It looks like something right out of Cirque du Soleil. So, where we may be lacking in mechanics, they make up for it in visuals. That's mostly what I like to see anyway. Why go to London if I'm not going to catch a production that no one anywhere else can afford to fork over the financial backing needed for special effects?

On top of that, this production is being played at Dury Lane. This theatre is the oldest operating theatre in the UK. I wanted to stop by and look at the theatre anyway; now we can kill two birds with one stone.

Dover Itinerary: Thursday, 15 May 2008

Okay, I thought about all of the day-trips that I could make from London, just to get a taste of the UK from outside of its capital. It's so hard! You feel like you have to go see everything. I wanted to make the pilgrimage out to Winchester to visit the grave of Jane Austen (kiss the plaque above her grave in the cathedral and think about the marvelous work she's shared). I wanted to go out to Salisbury to see Stonehenge (you know you can't even go in the circle of stones--you have to look at it from a paved and partitioned walk-way?). I wanted to see the historical sights in York (the home of Guy Fawkes--"Remember, Remember the fifth of November..."). In the end, you just can't see everything because then you'll miss everything. So I had to choose.

Just look at the White Cliffs. Can you imagine standing on those mountainous white cliffs capped with lush green, smelling the salty air, feeling the wind on your face, listening to the whistles in the harbor, and imagining every sovereign and dignitary crossing the English Channel being greeted by such a sight? This could be zen, guys. I really want to check it out. Dover won.

10:00a Dover castle opens to the public. 70 acres worth of history here, so there's as much to keep busy with as I might want. Because of its geographical location, Dover has been the most important defensive point on the British mainland; its the closest to France. Most every army invasion, most every VIP, most every immigrant in times of old has come through Dover after crossing The Channel. As such, one of the oldest structures in Britain is a stone lighthouse built by the Romans that now stands at the very center of the castle. The compound has a maze of underground tunnels, some used in medieval times and other created for the World Wars. An old Saxon church is contained within the castle walls. The castle stages battle reenactments daily. There's so much to keep busy with.

At some point during the day when the sun is high, I'll exit the castle temporarily and take a short walk over to the trail head that leads to the White Cliffs. I'll have lunch at the tea shop conveniently located at the top of the White Cliffs, then I'll stroll and meditate as long as I want or as long as I don't want. It's all up to me. The trip is drawing slowly to a close, after all, and I do want to take the time to think about everything. This trip was, is, and has been for me. This is time to use my senses and really let myself have as much of this time and scene as I can.

When that's over--I don't want to force the experience or stay too long and overkill on the experience--I'll head back to the castle and finish seeing the parts of the castle that interest me.

5:00p Everything closes, so I'll head back to the train station and catch the next train headed back into town. I dearly hope I'm not exhausted; I'd like to be able to enjoy the experience of the train ride back to London. It's not everyday you get to do such things.

I'll make it back into town just in time for all the shops to close. Depending on what I feel like, I may turn in early, or I may get brave enough to explore the night life (if it's cooth for someone to do that on their own without seeming like a predator).